Gathering Pruning Brush. 133 
too far behind it, does not give it enough live wood to carry it, 
and it makes a weak growth. The accompanying engraving 
shows the right way and the wrong way to cut a bud. In the 
first figure, the cut is too far from the bud; in the second, too 
close to it, and in the third the cut is made at the right point. 
Cutting to a Bud (Barry). 
Cutting to inside buds with trees of spreading habit, and to 
outside buds with upright growers, or to a side bud when lat- 
eral extension is desired, should always be remembered as a 
means of throwing new growth in the direction demanded by 
symmetry and equal occupation of the space allotted to the tree. 
This is one respect in which study of the habit of the tree sug- 
gests proper practise. 
COVERING WOUNDS. 
Whenever wood is cut with so great diameter that it will not 
grow over in one season, the wound should be coated with some- 
thing to keep the wood from checking and decaying. It has 
been amply demonstrated by California experience that smooth- 
paring of the cut by shears or saw is a waste of time. Large 
wounds should, however, be covered to prevent checking of the 
wood and drying back of bark edges. Nothing is better or 
cheaper for this covering than lead and oil paint, a little thicker 
than for ordinary use, and applied sparingly, so that it will not 
run down the bark. 
GATHERING UP PRUNINGS. 
Gathering up prunings for burning is tedious and expensive, 
and several efforts have been made to substitute machinery for 
hand labor. A device which has been shown to work well is 
Anderson’s Brush Rake, invented by W. C. Anderson, of San 
Jose. It readily gathers all kinds of tree and vine brush, com- 
presses it considerably and is easily discharged of its load by a 
slight lift while still going forward. It is said to save about one- 
half the cost of hand raking. 
