174, The Furrow System. 
and they are kept full of water, often for ten days atatime. This 
is done twice for fruits that ripen before. August 1, and once 
afterwards for late fruits. The ground between the ditches and 
the trees is cultivated frequently. 
Fresh Furrows.—Irrigation by freshly-turned furrows is the 
most prevalent method in this State, and is popular in all our 
irrigated regions where the soil is such that water freely dis- 
tributes itself laterally, and does not flow directly downward, as 
in some soils. The furrow system, as practised at Riverside, 
will serve to illustrate the method:— 
Along the head of the tree rows is placed a flume of wood or cement 
into which the water comes from the measuring box of the water company. 
This is made large enough to carry water sufficient for all the furrows, and 
opposite each proposed stream is a little gate or outlet. A marker or irri- 
gating plow has prepared the land to receive the water by making from 4 
to 6 shallow furrows in each space between the tree rows. Into this the 
water is allowed to slowly run—that is, if the irrigator be an expert. If 
he be not a good irrigator he will turn into each furrow a head sufficient to 
push the water through in a hurry, and in so doing wash down to his 
neighbor or back into the river the best of his soil. Some boast that they 
can run water a week without running off their land 2 per cent of the 
amount received; but these are fewin number. The hasty application of 
water has a tendency to form a ‘“‘slickens’’ that seems to prevent the 
water from penetrating into the soil as it does when it moves slowly. 
Given time, it will soak so deeply that one may sink a hoe-handle its length 
in the deep and fertile soil. It is only occasionally that the conditions are 
so favorable that it is well to allow the furrows to be over 60 rods in length, 
although eighty is the more common distance. The ideal distance is about 
4o rods, where the grade is perfect.* 
Building Flumes for the Furrow System.—These are made in 
different ways, but well-made lumber flumes are best on all ac- 
counts. The following are explicit suggestions for construc- 
tion :— 
Sixteen-foot lumber is better than longer. The sides of the flume 
should be of 8-inch lumber throughout, nailed to the side of the bottom, 
making 7 inches high inside. This size will carry about 75 inches of water. 
Reducing the flume in size, and keeping it nearly on a level, will give you 
the same pressure throughout. This is very important in regulating the 
streams. Place the first length about half its depth in the ground, and 
as it goes along and comes up too high, put in a drop of 2 or 3 inches or 
more, if necessary, and so on through the length. The first section, how- 
ever, should be about 2 feet wide, narrowed to the size of the flume so as to 
control the stream. Collars should be put around the flume every 8 feet of 
distance; that is, one in the center and one to cover the joints at each end. 
These collars should be 2x3-inch stuff.on the bottom and sides and 1x3 on 
top. This makes a strong, durable flume. The width of the flume should 
be reduced so the stream will decrease as it goes along; say from 16 inches 
to 14, 12, 10, 8-inch—the sides being the same throughout or reduced so as 
to have to-inch sides on the 16-inch bottom and 8-inch sides on the rest— 
nailed to the side of the bottom. Two-inch holes are none too large, in 
order to keep them clear of trash, such as leaves, etc. By lifting up the 
*E, W. Holmes, Riverside. SS 
