Pruning for Goblet Form. 299 
ground; a is the lowest shoot of each, which, in the first three 
instances, Figs. 1, 2 and 3, should be cut back to two buds, and 
all the other shoots removed entirely, leaving, however, the old 
stem d in each case, as it is useful to tie the new shoots to during 
the following summer. In the case of the feeble growth, Fig. 
4, the shoot & is to be removed and a allowed to stand as it is, in 
the prospect of its picking up strength and making growth 
enough to be cut back to two buds at the end of the next season. 
Thus it appears that usually all the vines can not be brought 
to uniform condition at once, but some will require a year or two 
more than others in the shaping process, because of the inherent 
weakness of the individual, or because some of the vines may be 
set in a spot of the vineyard less favorable to growth. 
Fie. 6. Fic. 7. 
Vine at Second and Third Pruning. 
Second Year.—During the second summer, vigorous vines 
will send out shoots five feet or more in length, according to the 
inherent strength of the variety or the favoring situation, and ot 
these the most upright and vigorous should be selected to serve 
as the foundation of the future trunk. It should be cut back so 
that the second bud from the top of the part that is left shall 
mark the height desired for the first fork of the coming goblet- 
shaped head. This cane should be tied to a stake and all other 
buds save the three at the top rubbed off. All other canes 
should be closely cut away. The engraving, Fig. 5, shows at a 
the cane to be chosen to form the future vine, while b and c are 
to be cut away cleanly. 
At this point practise varies in this State. Instead of rub- 
bing off the lower buds, as advised, some growers allow laterals 
to grow below the future head and the laterals bear fruit and. are 
afterwards cut away. The result is that a trunk is afterwards 
formed with scars from the removed laterals instead of smooth 
trunks, which are secured when the lower buds are rubbed away. 
