Budding the Fig. 325 
fill up the empty space. One must be very careful while draw- 
ing the knife around the stock not to go too deep into the 
wood to injure the cambium layer, or to weaken the stock. Tie 
a bandage pretty firmly over the whole. After two or three 
weeks the bandage has to be taken off, and, in the ensuing 
spring, the top of the stock or limb is cut down three inches 
above the budding. 
Another way of working such trees is by “whistle budding,” 
which is done in the spring, when the sap is well up. Figs. 3 and 
4 show this method. The stock and scion must be both of the 
same size and well in sap. The top of the stock is cut down to 
several inches from the ground; a circular ring of bark is then 
taken off, and a corresponding ring from the scion, but without 
br 
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Annular and Whistle Budding Illustrated. 
a longitudinal cut, is put in its place. In inserting it care should 
be taken that the top of the stock, which is to receive the ring 
from the scion, be very smooth, and the latter is then easily 
pushed down around it and bandaged. In the case of the fig, 
it is especially desirable to use the latter method when the sap 
is up, because if the top of the stock is not removed, the exuda- 
tion from above sours around the bud and prevents the union 
of stock and bud. 
To prepare an old fig tree for budding over, the limbs may 
be cut back in February within two to six feet of the trunk, 
covering the ends with paint or grafting wax. Allow two shoots 
to start near the end ot each of these amputated limbs, and rub 
off all other shoots. Bud the shoots when they attain the thick- 
ness of one’s finger, taking green buds from the growth it is 
desired to introduce, or let them grow and bud in the fall, which- 
ever is most convenient; or bud in the growing shoot, and rebud 
in the fall where buds have failed. 
