336 Budding the Olive. 
engraving the figure on the left is a tip cutting; the next, a cut- 
ting lower down the shoot, and the figure on the right is a tip 
cutting as lifted from the sand to show its manner of rooting. 
These figures are about natural size, and show clearly how the 
cuttings are made. They are placed closely in boxes of sand 
about four inches deep, and after a few months are potted in 
small pots, or may be reset farther apart in boxes of soil or in 
the open ground. If the cuttings are made in January or Feb- 
ruary, when the wood seems to be in the best condition in 
Berkeley, the trees will be of good size for planting in per- 
manent place the next winter. It is very important to take 
the small cuttings just when the wood is in the right condition, 
not too soft nor too hard. How to determine this point can 
not be described; it must be learned by experience. 
Growing Trees from Truncheons—New varieties secured 
from the south of Europe generally come in the shape of 
truncheons, which are long sticks of hard wood. They may be 
planted entire, or be sawn and split into large cuttings (for olive 
cuttings, even in firewood shape, will grow if properly treated), 
though better trees come from small cuttings. If the truncheons 
are bedded a few inches below the surface in moist, warm soil, 
shoots will appear which can be worked up into small cuttings 
when they reach the proper condition. 
BUDDING THE OLIVE, 
Since a large area of Redding Picholines has been planted. 
and the fruit found different from that anticipated, there has 
been a demand for working over the trees into better varieties. 
The method of budding commonly employed with fruit trees 
does not usually vield a high percentage of success wita the 
olive, and other ways have been adopted with much _ better 
results. 
Budding may be performed at any time of the year when 
the sap flows freely. If done late in the summer, the buds lie 
dormant through the winter. Best results are obtained when 
the buds are inserted early in the spring, as the operation can 
be performed to a much better advantage, and the buds will 
grow to some height before winter. When inserted in large 
orchard trees, or in limbs of large trees, the shoots from the 
inserted buds are allowed to grow until they have attained such 
a size as will iustifv in the removal of the entire top. 
Twig Budding.—Twig budding, as first published in this 
State by B. M. Lelong, secretary of the State Board of Horti- 
culture, is very successful. The bud is cut deep into the wood, 
in order to give the bud as much bark as possible. The leaves 
are partly cut off, then, with the sharp point of the budding 
