Budding the Orange. 357 
efit of the whole summer season for growth and maturing of 
wood. 
After the bud has started out well, the top of the stock 
should be removed at a short distance above the bud, and suck- 
ers on the old stock should be continually looked for and re- 
moved. The tender shoot of the bud is protected by tying to 
the stub, as shown in the engraving (from Lelong), and when 
the growth of the bud has become strong enough to support 
itself, the old stock is smoothly sawn away at the line O, and the 
wound covered with liquid grafting wax, or paint. 
477 i 
} 
Supporting the “Bud. Cutting a Bud with a Thorn. 
The care of budded trees in nursery is similar to that of the 
seedlings of the previous year. If too great a tendency to branch 
low down is observed, the tips of the lower shoots should be 
pinched, but it is not desirable to underprune much; the reten- 
tion of the lower branches thickens the stem. Sometimes a 
very rank growth on the bud will need a stake to strengthen 
it or protect it from blowing out. The intrusion of gophers 
and other vermin should be resolutely and persistently guarded 
against. 
Working over Old Trees—Old orange trees can be trans- 
formed into improved varieties either by budding or by graft- 
ing, as described at the close of Chapter IX, though re-working 
by grafting has been almost entirely superseded by budding. 
The common way to bud over an old tree is to cut back part of 
the branches and force out new shoots, the best of which are 
selected for budding and the others removed. Sometimes only 
a part of the tree is removed at first, and when the new buds 
have grown out on that, the other part is similarly treated. 
Recently the practise of budding into old bark has been 
widely adopted as the quickest way to secure a new tree. As 
with working into old bark in other trees it is necessary to take 
an older bud and a larger, thicker shield of bark behind it, than 
when budding into younger stock. Some remove the wood 
{from the back of the shield, but generally it is not done. The 
following is an outline of practise approved by the Redlands 
Horticultural Club :— 
