72 GENERAL CHARACTERS OF PRECIOUS STONES 



So long as the mutual relations of the facets of a cut stone are correct, the direction 

 these take relative to the faces of the natural crystal is in most cases immaterial. In a few 

 special cases, however, the directions of the cut facets must bear a definite relation to certain 

 crystallographic directions in the stone. Thus the special colour effects of labradorite, 

 moon-stone, &c., are only manifest in certain directions ; if cut in other directions, the 

 beautiful effects for which these stones are prized would be lost. This is also true in the 

 case of dichroic stones, which, as we have already seen, vary in colour in different directions. 

 Other cases of the same kind will be mentioned with the special description of each precious 

 stone. 



In the cutting of any given rough stone, not only must it receive the form best 

 calculated to display its special beauties, but the facets must be cut in such positions as to 

 involve the least possible waste of material, thus obtaining the largest possible size for the 

 cut stone. In considering the positions in which the facets are to be cut relative to the 

 boundaries of the rough stone, there are still other points which may require attention. 

 Thus the rough stone may have a flaw, and in this case the facets should be so placed that 

 the faulty material will be cut away altogether, or, at least, so located in the cut stone that 

 the beauty of the latter is impaired as little as possible. 



With rough material containing flaws, a question will often arise as to whether, in the 

 cut stone, size should be sacrificed to beauty, or vice versd. European gem-cutters are 

 generally unanimous in the opinion that such a specimen should be cut so as to attain the 

 highest possible degree of perfection and beauty even if this should involve considerable 

 loss of material. A small stone, all the beautiful features of which are displayed to their 

 full advantage, is more highly prized than a larger stone, the beauty of which is less perfectly 

 developed. In every rough stone, the aim of the gem-cutter is to obtain a cut stone of the 

 largest possible weight combined with the greatest possible beauty, since, the latter 

 condition being fulfilled, the price obtained for the cut stone varies with its weight. The 

 earnings of a cutter of precious stones depend largely upon his skill in treating each stone 

 so as to obtain the greatest effect with the least waste of material. 



These principles have not always been followed, for in earlier times the aim in gem- 

 cutting was to reduce the si/e and weight of the stone as little as possible. This is the case 

 even at the present day in India and the East generally, as well as in various remote parts 

 of the world where precious stones are found. Stones so cut have their facets very irregularly 

 grouped, and consequently much of their beauty is undeveloped. Such stones are unfit for 

 use in European jewellery, and are frequently re-cut according to modern principles ; the 

 increased beauty of their appearance so obtained more than compensates for the loss of the 

 material cut away. 



We now pass to the consideration of the various shapes and forms in which precious 

 stones are cut with a view to their use in jewellery. 



A. POEMS OF CUTTING. 



The various forms of cutting which have been found by experience to be most effective 

 for gems and which are at present exclusively used, at least for valuable stones, fall naturally 

 into two groups. The one includes all forms having facets, the other embraces forms of a 

 rounded or cabochon shape. All faceted forms may be referred to one or other of four types 

 according to the number and arrangement of the facets ; forms intermediate between these 

 types may also be met with. 



The facets of a cut stone may be more or less uniformly distributed on all sides, or. 



