76 GENERAL CHARACTERS OF PRECIOUS STONES 



multiples of six, and are distributed with great regularity, which serves to enhance the 

 appearance of the stone. This form of cutting was devised principally for diamonds, to 

 which it gives a very effective star-like or rayed appearance, very little inferior to that of the 

 ordinary brilliant. The cutting of this form from the majority of rough stones is attended 

 with but little loss of material ; the form is, however, not in general use. 



2. Step-cut or trap-cut. — The different types of step-cut stones, together with the 

 various modifications of this form, are illustrated in Plate III., Figs. 2 to 8, Figs. 2 to 4 

 being typical forms. In one of these (Fig. 2 b) the girdle is square; in another hexagonal 

 (Fig. 3 6) ; in a third it is eight-sided (Fig. 4>b,c); while it may be occasionally twelve-sided. 

 The outline of the girdle may be such that all its diameters are approximately equal, or it 

 may be more elongated in one direction. Above the girdle rises the upper portion of the 

 stone, bearing a large table of the same outline as the girdle (Figs. 2 5, 3 &, 4 6) ; the lower 

 portion terminates in a small culet (Figs. 2 «, 4 c), or in a point (Figs. 7 a, c). On both 

 portions lie a series of facets arranged in such a way that their edges of intersection are 

 parallel to the corresponding edges of the girdle. In passing from the girdle to the table 

 or to the culet, the facets become successively less and less steeply inclined (Fig. 2 a. Sic). The 

 upper portion has two, or sometimes three, series of facets, each series differing but slightly 

 in their inclination to the table. The facets of different series may be of the same width 

 (Figs. 2 6, 3 b), or the facets of the lower series are wider than those of the uppermost 

 bordering on the table (Fig. 4 6). On the lower portion of step-cut stones, there are 

 iisually from four (Figs. 8 a, c) to five series (Figs. 2 a, 4 c, &c.) of facets. None of the facets 

 of these lower series differ in width. 



The step-cut is the form employed for less deeply-coloured stones when they are not 

 cut as brilliants. It brings out the colour and lustre of the stone to great advantage ; it 

 must, however, be specially proportioned, particularly in the lower portion, to suit the stone 

 to which it is applied. The brilliancy and colour of the stone do not attain their full value 

 with an insufficient number of facets ; there are scarcely ever less than four or five series of 

 facets on the lower portion of the stone, and in faintly-coloured stones this number may be 

 increased. In such faintly-coloured stones the lower portion is rather deep, as is shown in 

 the figures, while in stones of a deep colour it is flat, sometimes very flat. 



While certain insignificant modifications of the lower portion of step-cut forms are 

 effective in varying the depth of colour of the stone, the upper portion may undei'go more 

 marked modifications, a few of which are illustrated in Plate III., Figs. 5 to 8. Here we 

 find the step-like facets of the upper portion replaced by an arrangement of facets similar to 

 that of a brilliant. These forms are therefore, to a certain extent, combinations of the 

 step-cut and the brilliant-cut, and are in general specially suited to stones of a pale colour. 

 The mixed-cut (Fig. 5 a, b) is a form in frequent use ; it bears on the upper portion a series 

 of triangular star facets and of similarly shaped cross facets, separated by a series of four- 

 sided facets. The mixed-cut brings out in light-coloured stones a stronger brilliancy and 

 lustre than does the typical step-cut. The outline of the girdle in this form need not 

 necessarily be circular, as in Fig. 5, but may be square, hexagonal, &c. 



Fig. Qa, b, shows the cut with double facets, a form which differs from the mixed-cut in 

 that several single facets of the latter are replaced by two facets ; the arrangement of these 

 facets in two series can be easily made out from the diagrams without further explanation. 

 The cut with double facets is no more effective than is the mixed-cut ; it is used simply for 

 the purpose of removing, or rendering inconspicuous, any faults which may exist in the rough 

 stone. In the cut ivith elongated brilliant Jacets the arrangement of the facets on the upper 

 portion is much the same as in the previous form ; the facets, however, are much elongated 



