HORIZONTAL COEDONS ON DWAEF WALLS 41 



cordons (p. 27). They may be planted five feet apart 

 at first, and when their branches meet they should b& 

 interlaced, as in fig. 10, and if necessary — i.e. if the 

 shoots be long enough —they may be traiaed over the 

 stems, so that the wall is completely furnished with 

 bearing branches. At the end of five or six years 

 every alternate tree may be removed, leaving the per- 

 manent trees ten feet apart. I advise planting thus 

 thickly because I know from experience that the- 

 temporary trees will fill the walls, will bear a good 

 quantity of fruit, and look more satisfactory than if 

 they are planted thinly. When removed they may be 

 planted out for espaliers, or fresh walls built for them. 



If, owing to the soil being rich, the trees are in- 

 clined to grow vigorously and not bear, they should be 

 lifted biennially, or root-pruned ; but pears on quince 

 stocks will be sure to bear abundantly. 



The dwarf walls, when covered with well-trained 

 trees, have a neat and charming efiect, and the trees 

 may be easily protected by sticking branches of ever- 

 greens in the ground and letting them rest against the 

 wall, or by cheap glass lights, in lieu of shutters, 

 placed against the walls, and suffered to remain so as 

 to cover the trees till the fruit is fully formed, or tUl 

 the first week in June, when all fear of damage from 

 frost is over. 



Where two or more walls are built, or a square 

 piece of ground devoted to them, a cross wall or walls 

 should be built at the north-east end, to prevent the 



