THE PROPAGATION OF PLANTS 207 



The cut forming the distal end of the cutting (115) 

 is preferably made somewhat above a node, in order 

 that the bud may not lose an undue amount of moisture 

 by evaporation from the adjacent cut surface. 



Cuttings of certain plants that do not readily form 

 roots when made in the ordinary way may be induced 

 to do so by " ringing " the branch from which the cut- 

 ting is to be made (428), just below a node at about 

 midsummer. Callus will then form at the upper edge 

 of the ring (79), and food will be stored in the stem 

 immediately above it. In autumn the branch may be 

 severed just below the ring and a cutting made, of which 

 the base shall include the callused part, and which may 

 be treated in the usual manner. 



374. Length of stem cuttings. — The proper length for 

 stem cuttings depends upon the conditions under which 

 they are to be grown. Cuttings containing only one 

 bud often root freely and form vigorous plants in the prop- 

 agating bed, where heat and moisture may be readily 

 controlled. Such short cuttings, however, are seldom 

 used except when cutting wood is scarce. Cuttings in- 

 tended for planting in the open ground are preferably 

 made at least six inches long. 



375. How to plant stem cuttings. — The general rules 

 given for the planting of seeds apply with nearly equal 

 force to cuttings of the stem (344). Single-bud cuttings 

 should be planted with the bud facing upward, and one- 

 half to three-fourths inch deep, in order that the develop- 

 ing bud may readily reach the surface. Cuttings of 

 more than one bud may be placed upright or at an angle, 

 at such a depth that the bud at the distal end (115) is 

 about on a level with the surface. In cuttings of shrub- 

 bery plants desired to produce a single stem, the central 



