158 CHAR 



when they enter the shallows to spawn, and the best 

 that can be said for so barbarous a practice is that it is 

 a beautiful sight on a bright October morning when the 

 net is drawn ashore and the fish are seen flashing their 

 ruby sides in the clear water. For the table, they are 

 certainly not at their prime at that season; better, 

 however, than those which seem to have contented the 

 Duke of Montagu, who is shown by the following letter 

 to have been content with spent fish ! 



London, January 27, 1738. 



Mr. Atkinson, — I received yours the 1 of this month, and 

 also the Pott of Charr which you sent by that day's Carrier, 

 which was the best I ever eat, and I would have you send me 

 some of the same sort by every Carryer, take care to Pick 

 the hen fish and those that are of the Eed Kind, and let them 

 be potted and seasoned just as that Pot was, for it cant be 

 beter. 



As I recon it is now the best season for Charr, I would 

 have you send me some fresh ones, directed to my Lord 

 Lovell who is Postmaster Generall, as you did the year before 

 last, which I think was by an express, but these came in a 

 wooden box, which made it a great weight for the Post to 

 carry conveniently, therefore these should be put into some 

 sort of a basket and the fish packed in it in moss or some sort 

 of thing that will keep them from bruzing and not give them 

 a taste. You let me know what day they will be in town 

 that I may give Ld. Lovell notice of it that they may not 

 lye at the Post Office. 



Let them you send me be well chosen fish, and all of the 

 Red sort. ... I am, yours, Montagu. 



We wish his Grace joy of a parcel of char after a 

 journey of four days ! 



The British char, by its haunts and habits, bespeaks 



