PRUNING INFORMATION 



33 



decide upon the kind of crop wanted. If the very biggest and 

 best flowers are wanted, then severe pruning is necessary 

 (see i , page 34) ; if a large crop of average flowers, then only 

 moderate pruning (see 2, page 34) ; but, where a quantity of 

 bloom is preferred, only a little pruning is necessary (see 3, 

 page 34). 



When pruning Hybrid Perpetuals, first cut out the weak 

 wood and any branches that cross; then cut back the strong 

 canes to about six eyes, the top one point- 

 ing out, and the cut being made one-quarter 

 of an inch above the bud. If you want 

 only a few big flowers, cut back to only 

 three or four buds. For the big outdoor 

 display, leave four to seven canes two- 

 thirds their growth. The Teas and Hybrid 

 Teas will need the same attention, but 

 there should be as much or more wood left. 

 In case the winter may have killed the canes, 

 cut back to live wood, even if down to the 

 surface of the soil. 



These rules are modified somewhat by 

 the character of the plant. The weaker- 

 growing varieties can be cut back farther 

 than strong-growing sorts. The strong- 

 growing kinds, if cut back too heavily, will 

 run to wood, and in the case of some — 

 Gloire Lyonnaise, for instance — too heavy 

 pruning may kill the plant. 



The Bourbon roses need but little pruning. Cut back the 

 stems a few inches. This is also true of the Austrian Briar 

 roses, of the Wichuraianas and the Ramblers, which should not 

 be pruned much in autumn or spring, but just after the 

 flowering season, to produce wood for next season's bloom. 



Climbing and Pillar roses need be cut back but one- 

 third to one-fifth, and on old well-established plants, the old, 

 enfeebled wood should also be taken out. 



The base of the branches may be prevented from becom- 

 ing bare. In straight branches, the sap goes to the top, leaving 



Showing where to 

 prune 



