238 WILD SPORTS OF THE HIGHLANDS chap. 



was up to my waist, running like a mill-race, and the bottom 

 was of round slippery stones. Scrambling up the bank, and 

 following the merry sound, we came to what seemed a mere 

 hole in the bank, from which it proceeded. The hole was 

 partially closed by a door woven of heather ; and, looking 

 through it, we saw a sight worthy of Teniers. On a barrel in 

 the midst of the apartment — half hut, half cavern — stood aloft, 

 fiddling with all his might, the identical Sandy Ross, while 

 round him danced three unkempt savages ; and another figure 

 was stooping, employed over a fire in the corner, where the 

 whisky -pot was in full operation. The fire, and a sliver or 

 two of lighted bog-fir, gave light enough to see the whole, for 

 the place was not above ten feet square. We made our 

 approaches with becoming caution, and were, it is needless to 

 say, hospitably received ; for who ever heard of Highland 

 smugglers refusing a welcome to sportsmen? We got rest, 

 food, and fire — all that we required — and something more ; 

 for long after I had betaken me to the dry heather in the 

 corner, I had disturbed visions of strange orgies in the bothie, 

 and of my sober Donald exhibiting curious antics on the top 

 of a tub. These might have been the productions of a disturbed 

 brain ; but there is no doubt that when daylight awoke me, 

 the smugglers and Donald were all quiet and asleep, far past 

 my efforts to rouse them, with the exception of one who was 

 still able to tend the fire under the large black pot. 



Friday. — From the state in which my trusty companion 

 was, with his head in a heap of ashes, I saw it would serve no 

 purpose to awake him, even if I were able to do so. It was 

 quite clear that he could be good for nothing all day. I 

 therefore secured some breakfast and provisions for the day 

 (part of them oatcake, which I baked for myself), tied up Bran 

 to wait Donald's restoration, and departed with my rifle alone. 

 The morning was bright and beautiful, the mountain-streams 

 overflowing with last night's rain. I was now thrown on my 

 own resources, and my own knowledge of the country, which, 

 to say the truth, was far from minute or exact. " Benna-skiach " 

 was my object to-day, and the corries which lay beyond it, 

 where at this season the large harts were said to resort. My 

 way at first was dreary enough, over a long slope of boggy 

 ground, enlivened, however, by a few traces of deer having 



