THINGS TO BE DONE IN OCTOBER 



65 



month; but over the stock planted out in the field you have no such 

 control, and it is much better left alone as long as good weather 

 prevails. 



If you have heavy plants of hardy Phlox (such varieties as Eliza- 

 beth Campbell, Rynstrom, W. C. Egan or others, outside of Miss 

 Lingard) and wish to increase your stock rapidly, lift the plants, 

 remove all of the heavier roots and spread in a coldframe with a 

 layer of sand below and one on top of them. These roots can be 

 cut up into 1-in. long pieces and started into growth inside in 

 sand next February; every piece will give you a new plant. The old 

 plants can be divided and replanted and will come out fine next 

 Spring; a fittle protection should be given to prevent the frost lifting 

 the plants out of the ground. 



Pot up a good number of Canterbury Bells and English Wall- 

 flowers and place in a frame. Lift Shasta Daisies, Coreopsis and, 

 by all means, a good number of Delphiniums. There is nothing fitner 

 than Delphiniums, and especially the beUadonna hybrids when slowly 

 forced under glass for Spring flowering. Good one-year-old plants 

 wiU do for forcing, but two- or three-year clumps are better. Aqui- 

 legia or Columbine makes another good perennial for late forcing. 

 AU these plants, when hfted, can go into a coldframe. You do not 

 want any of them inside much before February and March, and 

 should never expose any of them to a high temperature. 



Fig. 17. — Outdoor Chrysanthemums Here is a good -way to make use of the 



space between the greenhouses. With just a little protection many fine varieties 



will do weU here when they would prove a failure in the open field 



