WINTER PROTECTION OF HARDY PLANTS 121 



straw, or leaves on top of such plants as Foxgloves, Canterbury BeUs, 

 Shasta Daisies, Coreopsis or others before the ground is frozen 

 and while their tops are stiU in a growing condition, is to invite 

 trouble. Not only are the tops of some plants likely to rot off before 

 Spring, but there is much danger of field mice destroying those 

 that don't suffer in that way. 



While it doesn't matter how heavily or how early you cover 

 a Peony, a Phlox, or a hardy Aster, all plants that retain all or 

 a part, of their fohage should be treated more carefully. Always 

 avoid placing even well decomposed manure directly on top of such 

 stock; it is too heavy. A light but thick covering to keep the sun, 

 fight and raw winds away from the top of the plants is best. Always 

 wait until regular Winter conditions have set in before you really 

 cover. 



It isn't during November and December that much harm is 

 usuaUy done. The plants not protected during the following three 

 months suffer most. Under a few inches of snow from the end of 

 November on up to the middle of March, almost anything in the 

 perennial line wiU come out aU right. An open Winter without 

 snow, even through the temperature does not go down as low as 

 zero, with alternate freezing and thawing, is usually what makes 

 the beds look sick in early Spring. Freezing itself doesn't do as 

 much harm as the exposure of the plants to dry winds and changeable 

 weather conditions. You don't keep Jack Frost out with a fight 

 covering but rather render the plants less exposed to the weather 

 and in the best possible dormant state until Spring. 



As soon as hard freezing sets in, apply the covering; be sure 

 the surface of the ground is frozen first. If you use manure, shake 

 the heavy part out with the fork as you go along; it is just the thing 

 for between the plants. Then use the fighter part, that is, the 

 straw in the manure to cover the plants themselves. The lighter 

 and more airy this covering, the better; it doesn't hurt if it is six 

 inches or more thick, if loose enough. Or you can apply a light dose 

 first to be foUowed by another later on. Dry leaves make a good 

 covering if held down by straw manure or brush. In the case of 

 smaU transplanted seedfings such as Pansies or Myosotis, short 

 pieces of brush laid over the plants first and filled in between with 

 leaves make an ideal protection. 



In any case, when once the ground is frozen toward the end of 

 November or early in Decemb'er, it is usually safe to start covering. 

 In severe sections the more protection given during December and 

 up to the end of February, the better; but by early March, if mild 

 weatherprevails, you can begin to remove a part of the covering. Don't 

 take it all off until actual growth begins. One can uncover plants 

 too soon— but there is as much danger in leaving the covering on 



