COOKERY FOR SPORTSMEN. 329 



higher impulses of the mind, and clean hands are 

 often the index of a clean heart, so purity of appe- 

 tite usually accompanies purity of soul. Nothing 

 condemns the vulgar man more quickly than the 

 nature of his appetite, and his mode of gratifying it ; 

 driven on like the beasts by hunger, he thinks only 

 of the readiest and quickest mode of satisfying the 

 mipleasant craving, and never dreams there can be 

 anything intellectual in a dinner. The Americans, 

 as a nation, are ignorant of the first principles of 

 dining; in private, they ruin their digestions ; in pub- 

 lic, they disgust their fellows. With that practical 

 turn for which they are famous as a body, they de- 

 vote thems-elv-es to what is profitable ; and the arts 

 of sculpture, painting, and gastronomy are just begin- 

 ning to be appreciated. 



Those huge dishes that delight hungry, vulgar 

 John Bull, such as roast beef, boiled mutton, and 

 the like, still meet with the approbation of the active 

 Araeriean. They are well enough in their way, 

 and when properly prepared, but if underdone, or 

 overdone, or done too fast, or too slow, they be- 

 come at once indigestible and unpalatable. Beyond 

 them is a vast realm of excellent cookery, unex- 

 plored by the ordinary household, a land of econ- 

 omy which should be practiced everywhere, and 

 which the sportsman must learn to practice, if he 

 would live. He cannot order a fresh Joint from 

 the butcher when the old one has been thrown 

 away half consumed. He cannot run around to 

 to the grocer and announce that his potatoes are 



