WINTERING BEES 29 



warmed up, when they will often revive ; they always revive, 

 if it is warm enough, and they have not been chilled too long. 



Beekeepers have written in at many different times, fear- 

 ing that their bees had flown out in late fall, and, becoming 

 chilled on the ground, were utterly lost; but when a warm 

 day comes on a little later, these bees, if it has not been too 

 cold, will return to their hives. 



Old Dame Nature seems to have made some wonderful 

 provisions to preserve bee-life. We are therefore constrained 

 to believe that bees can stand, under some conditions, chill- 

 ing cold for some days without killing them. 



WINTERING IN CELLARS OR SPECIAL REPOSI- 

 TORIES. 



In discussing methods for wintering bees outdoors, we 

 have already given some principles that apply to cellar 

 wintering. In the first place, we may say that bees do not 

 require more than 10 or 15 lbs. of stores per colony, although 

 it is an advantage to have more, because it is difficult to feed 

 bees in the spring. With a strong force of young bees and 

 good stores we are well equipped to winter bees in the 

 cellar, provided we have reasonable control of temperature 

 and means for ventilation. Before we go into the general 

 subject of cellar wintering it is, perhaps, important to spec- 

 ify two or three 



IMPORTANT REQUISITES FOR A GOOD BEE-CELLAR. 



First is the control of temperature. The ideal tempera- 

 ture is about 45 degrees F. It may go up to 50 or it may 

 go down to 40; where possible the extreme should not ex- 

 ceed these figures. A greater variation early in the winter 

 does less harm than later. As the winter approaches spring 

 it becomes increasingly important that the temperature be 

 held as nearly as possible at 45. When we say 45 we mean 

 , the reading of a tested thermometer. Cheap thermometers 

 are often worthless for cellar use. If the temperature goes 

 too high the windows should be opened at night — never in 



