Ht 
68 Frsuing iy American WATERS. 
No. 2. Snell loop. Soak the gut, and tie the loop as repre- 
sented. It is the very best tie for a loop, and I have en- 
deavored so to represent it as to enable an amateur to im- 
itate it. 
No. 3. A helm-knot, or tiller hitch, useful in sailing a boat or 
yacht, because the hitch—though secure—is loosened in- 
stantly by a jerk at the end. 
No. 4. The common knot for forming a loop at the end of a 
silk-worm gut or line. 
No. 5,5. Two half hitches, forming a slide-knot in a casting- 
line, to slide for holding a drop, and for changing drops at 
will. Some anglers cast the end twice round instead of 
once, as shown. The drop hangs well from it, being at a 
right angle from the casting-line ; but with only one hitch 
of each end, as represented, the gut is apt to slp and part 
the casting-line, especially if the drops are frequently 
changed, because, when the knots become drawn very tight, 
they are hard to slide, and sliding them to change drops 
weakens them: but I have taken many hundreds of trout 
on drops so arranged. 
No. 6. The first drop, of the correct length. It is the red ibis 
fly, all formed of the ibis feather but the red silk body, 
wound with very small gold or silver cord. This is one 
of the most attractive lures for trout, but it is not so good 
as the coachman, or several of the professors, for large fish. 
The tail and hackle at the neck are brown. 
No. 7. A knot recommended by many accomplished anglers 
for connecting lengths of gut to form a casting-line. Some 
bend the end twice round instead of once,as shown. If 
only once, the ends should be lashed with waxed silk. 
No. 8. Drop, fastened by a half hitch round the casting-line 
and the end ofthe gut near the knot. After tying the knot 
of the casting-line, draw it tight, and cut off one end close, 
leaving the upper end half an inch long. Lash this end to 
the line, and cover it with varnish, and loop the end of the 
drop over it. By this plan the drop will not chafe or 
