54 MUSHROOMS, 



flavourings. Tastes differ in respect of mushrooms, as in 

 other things — some prefer what are called " fat " and others 

 " lean " mushrooms. These terms fairly represent the dif- 

 ferences observable in them, and no doubt these differences 

 depend on soil, season, age, cultivation, and so forth. A 

 fat mushroom is thick-textured and not over large ; the fla- 

 vour is rich and buttery. A lean mushroom is thinner in 

 texture — in other words, less fleshy, and when full grown 

 expands to a larger size than a fat one. No matter how or 

 where they are grown, however, they are all in some degree 

 fat when young and lean when old, and it is a question for 

 the cook and the epicure to settle between them what style 

 of mushrooin is to be preferred for any particular purpose. 

 The smallest buttons of the real Mushroom (Agaricus cam- 

 pestris), are, as everybody knows, delicious if nicely broiled, 

 but for a prime dish of mushrooms from the grill, whether 

 to eat alone or with a kidney, or chop, or bacon, some prefer 

 them fully grown, so that the brown gills are quite exposed ; 

 for in the buttons the gills are hidden by a membrane, which 

 disappears as the head expands and rends it asunder. Per- 

 haps the most wholesome and enjoyable way to cook fuU- 

 grown mushrooms is to put them on the grill, and this brings 

 us to the first step in practice. 



Grilled Mushrooms require a clean gridiron and a 

 bright, clear fire, with no chance of an atom of dust. The 

 muslirooms should be fresh and firm. It is usual to wash 

 them, but this practice is objectionable, for if they are so 

 gritty as to want washing, it is a fact that water will not 

 usually wash the grit out. The proper place for gritty and 

 broken mushrooms is the ketchup jar. We require for the 

 grill first-rate samples. 



In the first place, cut off the stems a little distance from 

 the gills, so as to remove the gritty root part, and a small 

 portion of the stem with it. Now gently beat the top to 

 dislodge any grit that may have got into the gills, and care- 

 fully wipe with a dry cloth the top of the cap, but do not 

 take off the skin unless it is loose. Keep the gridiron cold 



