EDIBLE FUNGI. 63 



ture, convex in shape; skin brownish at first, but ultimately 

 changing to a cream colour; gills of similar colour; stem 

 solid, twisted, and white; and roots attached to the grass. 

 The late Rev. M. J. Berkeley says: "When of a good size 

 and quickly grown it is, perhaps, the best of all fungi for 

 the table, whether carefully fried or stewed with an admix- 

 ture of finely-minced herbs and a minute portion of garlic. 

 It is at the same time tender and easy of digestion, and 

 when once its use is known and its characteristics ascertained 

 no species may be us«d with less fear. The French gather 

 this fungus, expose it to the air for two or three days, and 

 then store it in tins for future use. The Champignon will 

 keep in good condition for a long time. The best way to 

 dry them is to thread them together, and when thoroughly 

 dry to store as just suggested. Fungi growing in rings in 

 woods should not be gathered for food." 



The Chantarelle (Cantharellus cibarius). — A dainty 

 and delicious fungus formerly held in great esteem as a deli- 

 cacy at banquets. Not a very common genus, but said to 

 be fairly abundant in Kent and Sussex. The late Dr. Bar- 

 ham tells us in his " Esculent Funguses of England " that 

 " No fungus is more popular than the above, though the 

 merits — nay, the very existence — of such a fungus at home 

 is confined to the Freemasons, who keep the secret ! Having 

 collected a quantity at Tunbridge Wells, and given them to 

 the cook to dress, I learnt from the waiter that they were 

 not novelties to hirn ; that, in fact, he had been in the habit 

 of dressing them for years, on state occasions, at the Free- 

 mason's Tavern. They were generally fetched, so he said, 

 from the neighbourhood of Chelmsford, and were well paid 

 for." The fungus is of medium size, has its pileus, or cap, 

 lobed and irregular in shape, with a wavy margin. At first 

 the stalk is white and solid, but later becomes hollow and 

 yellow in colour. The colour of the cap is yellow, like that 

 of yolk of egg, and that of the flesh white, with an apricot 

 or plum odour. It usually grows in circles, or segments of 

 a circle, from June to October, in woods or under beech 



