24 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE SEA. 



CHAP. II. 



THE WAVES OF THE OCEAN. 



Wares and the Mode of their Formation. — Height and Velocity of Storm- Waves,, 

 on the High Seas, according to the Calculations of Seoresby, Arago, Sir James 

 Eoss, and Wilkes — Their Height and Power on Coasts — Their Destructive 

 Effects along the British Shore. — Dunwich. — Reculver. — Shakspeare's Cliff. 



After having admired the sea in the grandeur of its expanse,, 

 and the profundity of its depths, I shall, in this and the two 

 following chapters, examine in what manner the perpetual cir- 

 culation of its waters is maintained. 



" The movements of the sea," says Humboldt, " are of a three- 

 fold description : partly irregular and transitory, depending 





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^Z' - - -:L. . - - 



SHI 



H.M.S. " Resolute " lying-to in the North Atlantic. 



upon the winds, and occasioning waves; partly regular and 

 periodical, resulting from the attraction of the sun and the moon- 



