398 NATURE STUDY AND LIFE 



snap over the edge of the frame, as shown in Fig. i6o. If 

 a handle is desired, solder wire eyes into the middle of 

 each end of the frame. The bale should be made of stiff 

 galvanized wire, bent at right angles, with the drop just 

 ^^ long enough to let it fall 



-'^^/^ -^°"V neatly along one corner 



of the frame. 



Fig. i6o. Cover of Aquarium 'Yo set the glasS lay 



s.r., snap ring; A.,:, handle ring. aquarium CCmCnt CVCnly 



in the bottom of the frame and press the bottom glass 

 into place ; lay the sides in the same manner, and finally the 

 ends. Then, very carefully, for this is the point where 

 some glass is likely to break, spring in some limber green 

 twigs to press the glass gently against the frame and hold 

 it in place while the cement hardens. Cut off all super- 

 iluous cement and then smooth neatly along the angles 

 and seams, inside and out, and set away to dry. After a 

 week it is ready to fill with water. 



Larger sizes may be made, and at least the bottom of 

 the largest size should be made, of double-thick glass. As 

 in any case the glass is likely to be warped and bent, 

 we should select plane pieces if possible, but if curved a 

 little, the convex surface should be placed inside. For 

 the larger sizes we naturally use wider angle tin. The 

 table below represents my own experience in this matter. 

 Length, depth, and width are given in order. 



For aquaria 5X 7x4 to Sxiox 5 use J-inch angle tin for frame. 

 " " 10 X 12 X C "I- " " " " " 



" " 15 X 12 X 8 to 18 X 13 X 9 " } " " " " " 



I use either i-inch angle tin for 

 " *-' 20 X 12 X 9 to 24 X 13 X 12 I frame or i inch around bot- 



' tom and |-inch for the rest. 



