CHAPTER II 



UP THE PARAGUAY 



ON the afternoon of December 9 we left the at- 

 tractive and picturesque city of Asuncion to 

 ascend the Paraguay. With generous courtesy 

 the Paraguayan Government had put at my disposal the 

 gunboat-yacht of the President himself, a most comfort- 

 able river steamer, and so the opening days of our trip 

 were pleasant in every way. The food was good, our 

 quarters were clean, we slept well, below or on deck, 

 usually without our mosquito-nettings, and in daytime 

 the deck was pleasant under the awnings. It was hot, 

 of course, but we were dressed suitably in our exploring 

 and hunting clothes and did not mind the heat. The river 

 was low, for there had been dry weather for some weeks 

 — ^judging from the vague and contradictory informa- 

 tion I received there is much elasticity to the terms wet 

 season and dry season at this part of the Paraguay. 

 Under the brilliant sky we steamed steadily up the 

 mighty river; the sunset was glorious as we leaned on 

 the port railing; and after nightfall the moon, nearly 

 full and hanging high in the heavens, turned the water 

 to shimmering radiance. On the mud-flats and sand- 

 bars, and among the green rushes of the bays and inlets, 

 were stately water-fowl; crimson flamingoes and rosy 

 spoonbills, dark-colored ibis and white storks with black 



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