Across Nhambiquara Land 229 



our march we were usually far ahead of the mule-train, 

 and the rain was also usually falling. Accordingly we 

 would sit about under trees, or under a shed or lean-to, if 

 there was one, each solemnly reading a volume of Gibbon 

 — and no better reading can be found. In my own case, 

 as I had been having rather a steady course of Gibbon, 

 I varied him now and then with a volume of Arsene 

 Lupin lent me by Kermit. 



There were many swollen rivers to cross at this point 

 of our journey. Some we waded at fords. Some we 

 crossed by rude bridges. The larger ones, such as the 

 Juina, we crossed by ferry, and when the approaches were 

 swampy, and the river broad and swift, many hours might 

 be consumed in getting the mule-train, the loose bullocks, 

 and the ox-cart over. We had few accidents, although 

 we once lost a ferry-load of provisions, which was quite 

 a misfortune in a country where they could not be re- 

 placed. The pasturage was poor, and it was impossible 

 to make long marches with our weakened animals. 



At one camp three Nhambiquaras paid us a visit at 

 breakfast time. They left their weapons behind them be- 

 fore they appeared, and shouted loudly while they were 

 still hid by the forest, and it was only after repeated an- 

 swering calls of welcome that they approached. Always 

 in the wilderness friends proclaim their presence ; a silent 

 advance marks a foe. Our visitors were men, and stark 

 naked, as usual. One seemed sick; he was thin, and his 

 back was scarred with marks of the grub of the loath- 

 some bemi fly. Indeed, all of them showed scars, chiefly 

 from insect wounds. But the other two were in good 

 condition, and, although they ate greedily of the food of- 



