METHODS OF OUTDOOR WINTERING. 



The elements of success in wintering bees have now been outlined, and the 

 beekeeper may winter his bees in any way he likes, so long as he observes these 

 principles. He may winter out of doors or in the cellar, and if out of doors he 

 may place packing around each hive separately or around groups of two, four, 

 six, eight, or any other number that suits his convenience. Many successful win- 

 terers use the individual case, others pack two in a case, and others four in a case. 

 Larger cases than these are not recommended as being less convenient in many 

 ways. In addition to the points mentioned above it is important to note that 

 the hive should not be moved far from its summer stand for packing. The winter 

 cases make sufiBcient change in the appearance of the apiary to cause the bees 

 enough confusion when they fly afterwards without also changing the location of 

 their entrances. 



The Quadruple Case. 



The quadruple case described in the following paragraphs has been found 

 very successful by a number of beekeepers. The four hives are placed tightly 

 together in one box, two facing east and two west. This box provides for about 

 3 inches of packing on all sides of the four hives, and 8 or 10 inches on top. 

 There is no packing between the hives or under them. The stand, which is eight 

 inches high and made solid, prevents drafts of air underneath. The entrances 

 open out through the sides of the box, so the bees are always able to fly when 

 weather permits. They are packed up as soon as possible after supers are off. 

 then fed all the sugar syrup they will take early in October. 



Peepaeation of Hives. 



The size of the box will depend on the dimensions of the hive used. The 

 ten-frame Langstroth hive as made in Ontario is 30 inches long, 16% inches 

 wide and about 9^ inches deep. The bottom-board is 22J^ inches long and 1% 

 inches deep. These are outside measurements. The space inside the bottom- 

 board is % inches deep. If the frame-rests in these hives are so arranged that 

 the tops of the frames are even with the tops of the hives, that is, if the beespace 

 is underneath the frames, the space between the bottom-bars and the floor of the 

 bottom-board will be about one inch, which is sufficient for wintering. If, however, 

 the beespace is above the frames and the bottom-bars come even with the bottom 

 of the brood-chamber the space will be only % of an inch, and should be increased 

 by tacking half-inch strips on the rim of the bottom-board all around, or 

 by using the wedges which are frequently used to enlarge the entrance for swarm 

 control in summer. The entrance of the hive is left full width and this extra 

 depth all winter. The projecting bottom-board is bridged over by means of a 

 %-inch board, 2% inches wide and 16% inches long, laid flat, and extending 

 from one side rim to the other, so as to make a tunnel from the entrance of the 

 hive to the flight hole in the end of the box. After all four hives have been fixed 

 in this way they are ieady to put into their box. 



