13 



When feeding time comes in the early part of October, the packing is removed 

 from over the feeder-boards and a number of filled pails or jars are inverted over 

 the holes. If the days are warm this is done towards evening to prevent robbing, 

 and if the nights are cool packing is put around the feeders to hold the brood- 

 chamber heat and help the bees take down the feed. As fast as feeders are emptied 

 they should be refilled, until the bees signify that they have enough by ceasing 

 all work on the feeders. The latter are then removed, the burlap, paper and 

 packing are replaced, and the roof is adjusted for the winter. The feeding may 

 take a week or more in cool weather, but should be gotten through with as rapidly 

 as possible after it is once started. 



If these directions have been followed carefully the bees will require no further 

 attention until spring. In fact, some extensive beekeepers prepare their bees in- 

 a similar manner, then go to the city, and do not see them again till May. It is 

 better, however,' to visit the apiary frequently, not to disturb the bees in any way, 

 but to see that no accident has happened, such as fence blowing down, covers off, 

 etc. When a warm day occurs towards spring and the bees are flying, the entrance 

 doors should be raised and dead bees raked out with a wire. Snow drifting over 

 the box may do no harm, but uniformly good results are obtained by not allowing 

 it to be higher than the entrances around the box. 



■ CELLAR WINTERING. 



A few years ago this was the most popular method of wintering bees in northern 

 climates. Most beekeepers in Ontario and in the Northern States consid'ered that 

 their bees wintered more successfully in cellars than out doors. Since methods 

 similar to that described above, for wintering out of doors have been perfected 

 the tendency is all the other way aiid out-dpor wintering is being practised success- 

 fully as far north as bees have yet been ,kept in New Ontario. There are still 

 many, however, who have cellar space under dwellings or in similar places suit- 

 able for wintering bees which can be used at little expense in preference to making 

 up cases for wintering out doors. 



In general terms the conditions required for successful cellar wintering are: 

 first, total darkness; second, an even temperature, at which the bees will remain 

 perfectly quiet. This is usually found to be about 40° to 45° P. The cellar can 

 be kept this way most easily when it is nearly all underground, as it is then less 

 subject to the outside changes which occur from time to time during the winter. 

 The cellar air should be kept pure by a proper system of ventilation, and should 

 be neither too dry nor too damp. The hives themselves should have good ventila- 

 tion, which may be obtained by removing the summer covers and placing light, 

 porous packing on top, such as a layer of felt, a cushion of chaff, or something 

 of that nature. Many find it an advantage to pry the hives from the bottom-board 

 and block them up with %-inch blocks at the back, allowing a current of air to 

 pass from the entrance across under the cluster and out the back. The hives may 

 be piled one above the other on stands which keep the lowest hive at least one foot 

 above the cellar floor. In fact the best wintering is usually found nearest the ceil- 

 ing of the cellar. 



