AUTUMN NEEDS 53 
Certain of the bienni:.’: notably foxgloves, Can- 
terbury bells, hollyhocks and Myosotis dissitiflora, 
it is well to transplant to the beds in which it is 
proposed to have them bloom the next year, if 
this has not been done already; likewise summer- 
sown pansies, violas and dianthus. Move into 
their permanent places any perennials grown from 
seed and likely to bloom another year. 
Where there is actual danger of winter-killing, 
very young biennials and perennials may be car- 
ried over in a coldframe and bedded out in April 
or May. This is also a good way to catch up, 
if planting has been late or growth slow; devel- 
opment then goes on through the autumn and is 
resumed early in the spring. Put only a few leaves 
in the frame; just enough to cover the plants 
lightly, as if the fall had been natural. Bank 
earth against the frame and when winter has set 
in lay a piece of rush matting or some cornstalks 
on top of the glass. If there are warm days, let in 
some air and light in the middle of the day when 
the sun is warmest. 
Planting in autumn has a slight distinction from 
transplanting, for in the case of purchased plants 
and bulbs the time is sometimes regulated by trade 
exigencies. Thus lilies, other than L. candidum, 
may be transplanted in September and October, 
but purchased bulbs, especially the imported ones, 
are slow getting to market. Lily bulbs from Japan 
are planted in November and even in early De- 
cember, the ground being kept from freezing by 
