JULY: FIRST WEEK 169 



mulch, a condition which is apt to be the result in very dry 

 weather, if the flat hoes alone are used. 



Keep Down Late Weeds 



Care should also be taken, of course, to keep down all 

 weeds. Not only do they strangle the growth of legitimate 

 plants, but they rob the soil of food and much needed 

 moisture. Remove weeds while they are small. The work 

 of pulhng them up will be a great deal less. Often it takes 

 from three to four times as long to weed a row out clean, 

 where the weeds have been allowed to grow up as tall as 

 plants, as it would have taken when they were first large 

 enough to be pulled out. 



The summer conservation pohcies above outlined — keep- 

 ing the soil free from weeds and frequently cultivated — 

 are necessary to carry through to successful maturity such 

 spring crops as onions, parsnips, oyster plants, beets, car- 

 rots, etc.; and the later planting of pole beans, squash, 

 melons, etc. The majority of these can be successfully 

 stored, and, if the work is properly done, it is remarkable 

 how well their quahty can be preserved. 



Summer Transplanting for Winter Crops 



In addition to these crops, however, there are a number 

 of others which may be planted quite late, and still mature, 

 making real fall crops which may be used to fill up the space 

 in the garden occupied before by early cabbage, lettuce, 

 radishes, peas, green onions, early potatoes, or anything 

 else that is out of the way by the end of July. It is not only 

 a waste of space but usually a source of much weed trouble 

 for the coming year to let such spots remain idle for half 

 a season. 



Among the first of such crops to be put in are the late 

 cabbages for storing over winter. For this purpose, I 

 prefer the Danish Ballhead type which can be planted 

 closer than such sorts as the Autumn King, will head more 

 surely, quickly and soHdly, and is easier to keep. The 



