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AROUND THE YEAR IN THE GARDEN 



pose. The corner posts must be square, and it is better 

 to have the others so. The posts are carefully "lined up"; 

 a layer of boards, preferably tongued and grooved, is put 

 on; over these a layer or double layer of building paper; 

 another layer of boards; building paper; 

 and then shingles, siding, or stone-sur- 

 faced roofing. 



On top of the front wall is placed the 

 "eave plate" or sash sill which forms the 

 support for the lower ends of the sash 

 bars (the long narrow bars which sup- 

 port the glass) . At their upper ends the 

 sash bars are held in place in the "ridge." 

 The ridge, in the case of a lean-to house, 

 is fastened securely to the wall of the 

 house against which the greenhouse is be- 

 ing built. If the sash bars for the roof 

 are not over six or seven feet long they 

 will be strong enough to support the glass 

 without any bracing, or "purlines" as 

 they are called, under them. For sash 

 bars longer than that some support is 

 necessary, and the strongest and most 

 convenient thing to use is pipe, an inch 

 in diameter being amply strong for a small 

 house. Secondhand pipe is perfectly good 

 for the purpose. At the ridge or peak of 

 the house there should be one or more 

 hinged ventilators to provide for cooling 

 the house on bright hot days. At each 

 end of the house, in place of the sash bar, an "end bar" or 

 gable-rafter is used. This has the shoulder for the glass on 

 one side only, and is grooved out on the other so that the 

 glass in the end or "gable" of the house can fit into it, 

 making a tight, secure joint. The forms of the various kinds 

 of pieces or members used may be seen from the cross- 

 sections in any greenhouse material catalogue. 



Detail of side-wall 

 construction. 



