ARTIFICIAL WATER GARDEN 
(SEE PLAN NO. I4) 
N A rather large village lot the owner wishes to build a small 
pool and Marsh Garden. A small but constant supply of water 
can be had through a pipe, either from town or private supply or 
from distant brook or spring by gravity or hydraulic ram. Since this 
water is probably too cool for Water Lilies it may be well to build an open 
warming tank into which the water may flow before it runs into the pool. 
If the source of supply is a deep well the water is probably very hard, 
and it will be well to turn the rainwater from the house conductors into 
the pool. 
From the tank the water will run in a gentle rill into the pool; the 
bed of this tiny stream must be made of concrete which we hide by stones 
and pebbles put on while the concrete is still soft. The pool and tank 
will be made of concrete, the rims partly hidden by large stones laid on 
the soft cement. These stones are suggested on the plan by the cross- 
hatched areas. Other screen will be furnished by the planting. Near 
the seat under the Ginkgo trees (B on the plan), or other striking pair of 
trees, the rim may show hard and firm with a broad step which people 
may stand upon as they look down into the water. 
In the tank the water may be less than a foot deep in order to get 
warmed by the rays of the sun; and in the pool the average depth will be 
two feet as the Water Lilies are all in tubs which are removed in the winter. 
A clean-out drain should be provided that the pool may be drained in the 
fall and the concrete covered deeply with leaves and straw, for we have 
imagined the frost conditions of our northern winters. Unless the water 
supply is abundant no overflow outlet to the pool is needed. Let the 
water flow off in a shallow rill and sink away in the soil. A heavy clay 
soil will require drain tile to carry the surplus water away, but a sandy 
or porous soil will drain itself, particularly if the land drops to the west. 
This marsh will be the home for small shrubs that are moisture-loving. 
At the lower end of the marsh take out the original soil and add good 
peat, for evergreen Heaths are a feature of this part of the garden. Sim- 
ple paths of gravel or turf are necessary that we may get close to the 
plants to admire them, and wherever the soil becomes boggy we put down 
flat field stones. 
Tall trees and tall shrubbery will enclose this garden on three sides, 
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