^T. 58.] TO JOHN TORREY. 581 



February 1. — Reached Abou Simbel at daybreak, 

 and were under the great giant Eameses when the 

 first rays of the sun touched their huge, placid faces, 

 and were in the rock temple within when the hori- 

 zontal rays entering the small opening for a half hour 

 lighted up the great Osiride figures to best advantage, 

 and even reached the broken statues at the bottom of 

 the adytum. Later in the day explored leisurely and 

 repeatedly the whole interior chambers with candles, 

 and occasionally with Bengal lights and magnesium 

 wire (the best of aU lights), bringing out well the 

 famous sculptures that cover all the walls. Climbed 

 the heights later in the day to get superb views of 

 desert and river and the sunset. Late in evening 

 some went again through the sand to see the great 

 faces by moonlight, which, however, they supple- 

 mented by torches. We were moored right under the 

 face of the smaller rock temple. . . . 



February 9. — Awoke at Philse ; of which I wiU 

 only say that even Miss Martineau does not exag- 

 gerate the interest of the whole, and the beauty and 

 picturesqueness of the site. 



February 10. — All day at Philse, and dropped 

 down to Mahatta just as the sun set gloriously be- 

 hind the ruins and the mighty rocks which surround 

 them. 



February 11. — The Ibis shot the great cataract, all 

 but one of our party being on the shore to see the ex- 

 citing sight, — finer, it is thought, than being on board, 

 though you thus lose the sense of personal danger. 

 We were taken on shore round the trying points, and 

 in our rowboats the rest of the way down to Assouan, 

 where we joined the Ibis, vociferously welcomed by 

 our combined Egyptian and Nubian crews, all re- 



