794 FINAL JOURNEYS AND WORK. [1887, 



railway pass across the Alps. I was quite unprepared 

 (which was all the better) for the exquisite and wild, 

 and in parts grand, scenery of the next day's journey 

 through the heart of Lower Tyrol and the Salzburg 

 Salzkammergut, by a slower train, a roundabout road 

 making: more than twice the direct distance from 

 Innspruck to Salzburg, through the Zillerthal and over 

 a fairly high pass on to the upper part of the Salzach, 

 and down it through some wild caiSons into the plain, 

 from nine A. M. till five, of choicest scenery. The 

 great castle, so picturesquely placed in the Lichten- 

 stein (plain), is Schloss-Werden. Rainy day at Salz- 

 burg, or should have had noble views. If the weather 

 had been good, I think we would have driven from 

 Salzburg to Ischl, and then come by the Traunsee 

 to Linz. But after all, from my remembrance, it 

 would hardly have come up to what we had already 

 seen. And though it was a rainy day for the Danube, 

 we did see everything pretty well, and most comfort- 

 ably, in the ladies' cabin of the steamer, with windows 

 all round the three sides, and most of the time the 

 whole to ourselves, or with only one quiet lady, who 

 evidently cared nothing for the views. J. says I 

 was bobbing all the time from one side to the other. 

 I was looking out for the views which I had when 

 going up the Danube forty-eight years ago. J. thinks 

 it not equal to the Rhine, but there is rather more of 

 it, or scattered over more space. 



TO SIR J. D. HOOKER. 

 Hotel Beau Rivage, Geneva, May 24, 1887. 

 I do believe we shall have to return to America to 

 thaw out. Here we arrive in Geneva this morning, 

 full of memories of delightful summer, ten days earlier 



