98 HIVES AND BOXES. 
invention, and described the modified form of his hive, 
which he used successfully for several years. 
The simplest form is made as follows : 
Cut two pieces 18°/, inches long, 12 in. wide, of ’/,-in. 
lumber. Rabbet the ends ’/, in. wide, and */, in. deep, 
to receive the end pieces. This will allow the corners to 
be nailed from both ways, making it more firm and 
strong. 
Next, cut two pieces 12°/, inches long, 12 in. wide, 
and same thickness.* In one edge of the ends, cut a rab- 
bet '/, in. each way. Nail together with the end pieces 
inside, and the rabbeting at top, to support the frames. 
This will make a box 121217, inside measure. For 
the bottom board cut a piece 18°/, in. long, 13°/, in. wide. 
Cut two cleats 13°/, in. long, and 1'/, in. square. Nail 
these on each end, with wrought nails, clinching them 
firmly. Cut an entrance in this bottom board, 4 in. 
wide, and */, in. deep, at the front edge, gradually slant- 
ing to the surface, 4in. back. (See fig. 34). For a top, 
cut a board of the same size as the bottom. Nail two 
cleats 12°/, in. long, 1*/, in. wide, 7/,in. thick, across it, 
1 in. from the end, and an equal distance from each edge, 
clinching well. In all cleats it is well to bore holes, for 
nails, to avoid splitting. It is a mistake of many writers 
to advise too heavy material for bottom-boards. They 
should be made light, that they may 
ANN not add unnecessarily to the weight 
Teo roy manus, of the hive when handling. Across 
the bottom of the hive in “the center 
should be a stick with bent wires, or what is better, a 
cast-iron piece to hold the frames steady, and at proper 
distances apart. This (fig. 23) is held in place with screws. 
For a cap to cover the top and protect the boxes, cut 
two pieces 19’/, inches long, and wide enough to make suf- 
* Unless otherwise specified all material for hives should be } inch thick. 
