HIVES AND BOXES. 101 
‘/, in. wide, and '/, in. thick. For the bottom, cut a 
piece 16 in. long, ’/, in. wide, and '/, in. thick. Nail 
together, making a frame as shown in fig. 25. Two tri- 
angular blocks should be added to the corners to stiffen 
the frame. They should be about 1'/, in. on the sides 
next to the frame. ight of these frames will fill a hive. 
These hives are designed to receive top-boxes only. 
DIVISION-BOARD. 
At any time when a limited number of frames is used, 
the brood chamber should be contracted accordingly. 
For this purpose, a movable . . 
division-board is necessary. [~~ aa | 
Tf but one or two frames are 
used for a nucleus, and it is 
desired that they occupy a 
position at the center of the 
hive, a division-board may 
be placed at each side of the 
combs. To make one, a board : 
of the required size, with a bar across the top, as shown 
in fig. 26, is all that is needed. Some cnt them slightly 
smaller than the hive, and place a piece of rubber or 
leather in a groove around the outside, to fit the sides of 
the hive more completely. 
Fig. 26.—DIVISION BOARD. 
SIDE-BOXING HIVES. 
The question of side-boxing hives occurs here, as their 
use involves some change in the details of construction. 
Are they desirable ? If honey, rather than increase of 
colonies is the aim, I answer, yes. Where a moderate 
increase is preferred, boxes enough to secure all the sur- 
plus likely to be gathered, may be used upon the top of 
the hive, by placing them two tiers high. But if swarm- 
ing is to be prevented, I consider side-boxes indispensa- 
