MIVES AND BOXES. 111 
them on even with the bottom, leaving the space of one 
inch at top, to receive the lid. In the center of the bot- 
tom of the end pieces, put in an iron dowel-pin made of 
1/ in, round iron, long enough to reach into the holes in 
the bottom-board. 
The top, or lid, when completed, should be 29°/, x 20°/, 
in. Itis preferable that it consist of three pieces, but 
two will do. Cut them 
29'/, in. long, and so 
that they will make a 
width of 19 in. Two 
pieces 19 in. long, 1'/, 
in. wide, and ’/, in. thick 
should be nailed flatwise 
on the under side at each 
end. Two other strips 
29'/, in. long, 1°/, in. 
wide, by ’/, in. thick, are 
to be nailed at the sides, 
which forms the entire 
rim of the lid. The cor- 
ners of the hive are held 
together by an appliance 
designed for the purpose 
by Mr. Quinby, and known as the ‘‘Quinby Hive 
Clasp ” (fig. 37). It will be found admirable to use on 
any hive, as nailing is avoided, and strength and solidity 
secured. At the same time hives can be readily taken 
apart for examination, or to pack away when not in use. 
With the required number of frames in the center, and 
space for boxes at sides and top, the hive is now ready to 
set up (fig. 38). 
POSITION OF THE FRAMES, 
Fig. 37.—QUINBY HIVE CLASP. 
The question often arises as to whether the frames 
should stand at right angles to, or parallel with the front 
