FEEDING. 207 
dimensions can be varied to suit. In the center of 
one side, near the top, is a °/,-in. hole, and near each 
end, on either side of this hole, are two others, large 
enough to slip over a nail-head. 
In the panel, at the side of the Quinby frame, I bore a 
*/,-in. hole to correspond with the one in the cup, and 
drive two small nails at proper distances each side, upon 
which to hang the feeder. A cap may be miade to 
shut out bees from the outside. I lay a piece of glass over 
it, to be able to see when it is empty. These feeders are 
coated on the inside with a mixture of shellac and sand, 
that the roughness may give the bees a footing. A float 
is made of */,-inch board, and */, inch smaller each way 
than the inner dimensions of the feeder. Across the 
underside of this, at each end, is a cleat */,x'/, inch. 
This is nailed on with small tacks just long enough to 
clinch. If, in each end of the cleats, a tack is driven 
partially in, so that the head comes within */, inch of the 
cleat, the float will rest upon the heads of these tacks 
when the feeder is about empty, and the bees will be able 
to pass under it. This will allow the bees to remove the 
food more completely than if it rested directly on the 
bottom. The fact should always be borne in mind, that 
bees should never have access to liquid honey, without 
something being placed in it to sustain them. 
The feeder above described, can be used in connection 
with the hanging-frame hive, in the spring, when each 
swarm contains but a limited number of frames, and a 
close-fitting division-board is used to economize space. 
A hole may be bored in this board, and the feeder ad- 
justed as above. 
For feeding at the top of the hive, I know of nothing 
better than the Van Deusen feeder (fig. 83). After fill- 
ing, it is inverted and placed over the opening on the top 
of the hive. Atmospheric pressure prevents the escape 
of the honey or syrup. If. adjusted properly, the feeder 
