THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 7 



wood ashes may be used. Do not appFy 

 lime at the same time as manure or mixed 

 fertilizers, as it will cause loss of nitrogen. 



As an addition to soil lime is of consider- 

 able value. Besides correcting acidity it 

 changes the physical structure of the soil. 

 One of the elements of lime is calcium, which 

 is required for plant growth. 



OUTDOOR HOTBEDS 



For early planting a hotbed may be made, 

 located in a sheltered spot with southern 

 exposure, where it will receive a generous 

 supply of sun. A width of 6 feet is desirable, 

 and the length should be such as will enable 

 the use of standard 3 by 6 foot hotbed sash. 

 A simple, bo.xlike frame, 12 inches high in the 

 rear and 8 inches high in front, will hold the 

 sash and give a better angle for the rays of 

 the sun. 



Dig a pit IK to 2 feet deep, the size of the 

 sash frame to be used. Line the sides of this 

 with boards or planks, brick or concrete, and 

 make a tile drain, or place stones on the 

 bottom of the pit, to carry off surplus water. 

 This pit is to be filled with fresh horse manure. 

 The manure will require special treatment 

 before being placed in the pit. It should be 

 thrown into a pile and allowed to heat. 

 When it has heated and is steaming fork it 

 over into a new pile, throwing the outside 

 material into the center. When the new pile 

 has become well heated fork the material 

 once more into a new pile. This will require 

 from ten days to two weeks and is important 

 in that it gets rid of excessive heat. After 

 this process fill the pit with the manure, 

 packed down firmly and evenly, level with 

 the surface of the surrounding earth. On 

 top of this manure make a covering of good 

 garden loam 3 or 4 inches deep. 



When the sash has been put in place the 

 manure will generate heat, in addition to the 

 heat that will be derived from the sun. After 

 this heat has reached its highest point and 

 dropped back to between 80 and 90 degrees F. 

 the seed should be planted. Use the best 

 seed obtainable. Until the seed germinate 

 the hotbed should be kept shaded to hold 

 moisture. This can be done by spreading 

 over the sash strips of old carpet, heavy cloth 

 or newspapers. After germination strong 

 light will be needed. The plants must be 

 watered each morning on clear days, and the 

 sash left partially open for ventilction, as it 

 is necessary to dry the foliage to prevent 

 mildew. 



Proper ventilation is essential to the pro- 

 duction of strong, healthy plants. The sash 

 should be raised during the warmest part of 

 the day on the side opposite the direction 

 from which the wind is blowing. By opening 



it in this way instead of facing the wind, the 

 hotbed receives fresh air without receiving 

 direct draft. On cold days raise the sash 

 slightly three or four times a day for a few 

 minutes only. In severe weather cover the 

 beds with mats, straw or manure to keep in 

 as much heat as possible. About two weeks 

 before transplanting time the sash should be 

 removed during the day to "harden" the 

 plants. While in the hotbed the plants 

 should be thoroughly watered, but the water 

 should not reach the manure underneath. 

 Early morning is the best time for water- 

 ing, so that the plants will be dried before 

 night. 



An outdoor hotbed of this character should 

 be started in the early spring — February or 

 March. 



THE COLD FRAME 



A cold frame is useful for hardening piants 

 which have been started in the hotbed. It 

 is built like a hotbed, but without the pit or 

 manure. It is built on the surface of the 

 ground. Good, rich soil should be used and 

 the soil kept slightly moist. In mild climates 

 the cold frame may be used instead of a hot- 

 bed for starting plants. It is also used in the 

 fall and early winter for growing lettuce, 

 radishes, carrots, parsley, etc. 



TOOLS 



Not many implements are required for 

 home gardening. The essentials are a spade 

 or a garden fork, a hoe, a rake with steel 

 teeth, a trowel, a dibble or pointed stick, and 

 a line such as is used by masons, or a piece of 

 common string or cord, to stretch between 

 two stakes for marking off rows. In the case 

 of hard packed earth a pick is useful for dig- 

 ging. For watering, a rubber hose is needed 

 where pipe connections are available. Lack- 

 ing this equipment a watering pot should be 

 provided. A hand cultivator or wheel hoe is 

 useful, especially in a large garden, and saves 

 much time and labor in turning small furrows. 

 With simple attachments it is used for 

 stirring the soil and the removal of weeds. 



PREPARATION OF SOIL 



After the frost goes out test the ground by 

 squeezing a handful of it. If it crumbles the 

 soil is ready for spading. If it packs into a 

 mud ball, the ground is still too wet and 

 should not be worked. 



Spade deeply, 8 to 15 inches, unless this 

 latter depth turns up poor soil and buries the 

 richer soil of the top. Pulverize the dirt 

 deeply with hoe, spade and rake, breaking all 

 clods on the surface. If a lawn roller is 

 available it is useful for crushing clods. All 

 vegetable growth on the surface, such as grass 



