90 THE BEE-KEEPER’S MANUAL. 
just quoted may be observed, but to prevent trouble 
from extra recesses in the windows, Mr. Taylor recom- 
mends (under “ Bar Boxes’’) to cut a fine rabbet on 
the inner side and therein cement the glass flush 
with the side itself. The best kind of cement for the 
purpose, he says, is a mixture of powdered chalk and 
glue. 
As for the frames themselves, several variations 
of detail have at different times been adopted. The 
upper bar has been made convex beneath instead of 
flat, and a ridge run along the centre for covering with 
melted wax; very frequently a saw cut, for the admis- 
sion of wax strips, is made through the bar, and 
almost from end to end; in other cases this slit has 
taken the form of a deep groove only; and, again, a 
plan has long been commended by some of construct- 
ing the frames themselves somewhat wedge-shaped, or 
narrower at the bottom than the top, in order to give 
greater facility of extraction (in which case the hive 
itself should have its inner walls sloping to corre- 
spond, the interior measurement from front to rear 
being a half or three-quarters of an inch less at bottom 
than at top). The projecting ends extend about three- 
eighths of an inch, while without these the outside 
dimensions will be th’r.een and a half inches long, 
and ten deep. For suspension of the frames a ledge 
may be carried round the inside of the top of the hive, 
low enough to admit of passage to the bees between 
the bars and the crown-board: this ledge should be 
sharply bevelled behind on its upper edge, to prevent 
propolising. For preserving the intervals unvaried, 
Mr. Cheshire’s distance-pin, figured on page 109, is 
