‘A JOURNEY IN THE EAST, 287 
racts are not waterfalls but rapids, where the river foams and 
roars as it seeks a way through the thousands of rocky islets, 
crags, and reefs with which its bed is studded for more than 
halfa mile. The whole scene is undeniably magnificent, and 
its peculiar charm is still further heightened by the remark- 
able forms and the blackness of the reefs and ridges which 
rise above the white seething waters. It is also interesting 
to see the Nile, usually so sluggish and turbid, changed for 
a short time into a wild mountain-torrent. 
As soon as we had reached the best point of view a number 
of naked Nubians appeared, who sprang into the water and, 
avoiding the rocks, let themselves be carried through the most 
furious of the channels. Ina few moments they were swept 
down a long way with the speed of an arrow, and then they 
emerged from the water dripping and clamouring for back- 
sheesh. We now went back to the boat, and after rowing a 
little further up-stream mounted our donkeys, which were 
ready waiting, and returned to Assuan by the same route 
that we had taken in the morning. 
This excursion had occupied the entire day, and not until 
late in afternoon did we reach our steamer. We then dined 
at once, and afterwards Hoyos and I went out, just as twilight 
was coming on, to the hiding-places which we had made use 
of last evening. This we did by the advice of my jiger, who, 
while we were at Philze, had found the fresh tracks of a Hyena 
near the remains of the carcass. 
It was a fine night, and as I had determined to shoot at 
nothing but hyzenas, and to wait until they came, I was pre- 
pared to remain out until a late hour. Several jackals 
appeared, and were allowed to pass unmolested; but just 
as it was getting on for midnight, and I was having a hard 
fight against sleep, I saw in the clear moonlight some people 
slink by not far from my ambush, and soon heard several 
shots and the familiar cackle of the unlucky decoy-hens. 
