‘A JOURNEY IN THE EAST’ 375 
steppe country. At this point the valley becomes narrower, 
for the mountains which border it on the west advance into 
the plain, and one has to cross steep slopes, deep ravines, and 
stony tracts. We enjoyed some splendid views of the valley 
of the Jordan, which is here much cut up with gullies and 
mountain- streams, and of the grand hills on its further side, 
with their high grey cliffs and picturesque forms. Nowhere in 
the whole valley did we find ground so broken and so devoid 
of vegetation as that which we traversed during the first hours 
of this day. 
Great numbers of large birds of prey were cruising about, 
and close over my head flew a Steppe Eagle, which I brought 
down with a lucky shot in such a way that it fell among the 
horses with a heavy thud. 
We next had a troublesome climb up a narrow spur of 
the mountains, but on reaching its crest there lay before 
us a splendid view. The valley of the Jordan now began 
to broaden out, and one could overlook the green plains up 
to the hilly country on the shores of the Sea of Tiberias. 
Right and left were the finely formed mountains which border 
the valley, and to the north the view was closed by the high 
peaks of the Lebanon and the broad snow-fields of Hermon. 
It was a truly remarkable contrast : here we were languishing 
in the most terrible heat, such as is only to be found in the 
valley of the Jordan, and before us, on the far mountains, the 
snow was shining clear as crystal. 
At this interesting point of view we halted for a little rest, 
intending to ride down to the Jordan and spend some hours 
on the banks of the sacred stream, while the caravan pur- 
sued its long and toilsome way. 
The Bedouin with his flying mantle and long spear, who 
had hitherto guided us so well, did not, however, know the 
nearest route to the river, and frankly admitted it ; so we dis- 
persed to search for the most direct way of getting down to 
