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vigorous shoots, according as they are nearer to the extremity. 
Thus ‘the buds at B will develop but slightly, those at C, growing 
about the middle, will grow two or three inches in length, while 
those shoots at D will probably reach a couple of feet. These last, 
with the exception of the terminal shoot, are cut back at the time 
of pruning to a length of four to six inches. The terminal shoot 
will thus extend and fruit buds will develop over the shoots left. 
A year or so after, the short spurs at B give birth to a few 
flower buds, they have in the centre a wood bud whieh will slightly 
extend their length. These spurs must not be cut. The larger 
ones at C have flower buds in the middle and wood buds at the top 
and must be eut back slightly, while those at D, which are more 
vigorous, are shortened either by cutting or by partial fracture (see 
fig. ). 
After another year and in subsequent seasons, the lengthened 
spurs must be eut back a little, so as to diminish the number of the 
blossoms and prevent the too great lengthening of the shoots. The 
same is done year after year, and when the fruiting shoots cease to 
bear they are eut back slightly, in order to develop new replacing 
branches towards the base. 
Some growers only shorten plums and prunes once in every 
two or three years, after coming into bearing. This practice holds 
as well with pears, but will not do with peaches, apricots, and 
Japanese plums, which require similar pruning to peaches. 
PRUNING THE APRICOT. 
The fruiting habit of the apricot is much like that of the plum, 
and the same method of shortening-in is adopted in 
this instance. 
It moreover, like the plum, bears fruit spurs on 
older woods; these bear for several years, and being 
provided with leaf buds at the base, can be renewed 
by cutting back when they grow feeble. 
The apricot is a spreading and rank grower, 
which, unless kept well within bounds, runs long 
branches, which are liable to split asunder in windy 
weather, when laden with fruit. For that reason 
no two shoots should come from one bud, or be 
directly opposite. 
Pruning to inner buds is greatly to be recom- 
mended when shaping the tree, while summer prun- 
ing is frequently resorted to just after the crop has 
been gathered, so as to promote the formation of 
fruit buds at the base of the twigs, and minimise 
the risk of gumming, the wounds healing at that 
Apricot branch time rapidly. When large limbs have to be sup- 
before pruning. ressed, they should be well trimmed and coated 
