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over with white lead, gum-shellac varnish, clay or other covering, 
otherwise there is danger of the branch dying back and killing or 
injuring the tree. 
Unruly branches are better tied up with short string till they 
naturally grow in the position they are meant to oceupy. During 
the first two or three years the trees need to be gone over two or 
three times during spring and early autumn to remove suckers 
the lateral growths that may start on the lower side of the limbs; 
these, if left, would check the growth of the permanent limbs above 
and the formation of fruit spurs. Many successful growers prune 
their full-grown apricot trees, if found to be shy bearers, soon 
after the fruit is picked, in the early autumn—preferably after a 
shower of rain (March in Western Australia)—though not too 
1; 2 3. 
1. Apricot fruit branch pruning neglected. 2. Fruit spur, year after first 
pruning. 3. Other fruit spur, year after first pruning.—Dv BREUIL, 
heavily, unless the tree is weakened by over-bearing. This develops 
the buds for the next year. This operation is only recommended 
after the trees have reached the bearing age. While the tree is 
