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The olive bears its crop on the growth of the previous year, 
and it is therefore essential to favour the multiplication of new 
shoots in order to increase annual production. This is done by 
shortening the terminal shoots when shaping the trees, suppressing 
the “gluttons,” or fruitless water shoots, removing all branches 
that are misplaced, crossed, or are in the way, and keeping down 
the suckers. A dense growth of foliage in the centre of the tree 
should be reduced by thinning out some of the branches. This also 
checks the black scale and the sooty mould. Whipping the branches 
in gathering the crop, or pruning off the young growth, will make 
the tree barren the following season. 
The best time for pruning is after the severe winter frosts are 
over, and just before the sap begins to rise in the spring. In this 
country, however, where ground frost only is experienced, pruning 
can be done at any time in the winter, provided care is taken to 
coat any fresh wound with the gum shellac varnish, or a thin paste 
made of cow dung and clay. 
PRUNING THE PERSIMMON. 
Persimmons bear on new wood off the previous season’s growth, 
hence the advisableness of pruning hard back to induce fresh 
growth. When cut the plant exudes through the wound a corrosive 
sap, which cakes on the blade of the knife or the secateur, and 
causes the cut branch to die back, unless the blade is, at frequent 
intervals, cleaned on a piece of leather. 
PRUNING THE PASSION VINE. 
The Passion Vine planted in the spring or the early autumn 
on a moist sandy loam, liberally manured, is an exceedingly profit- 
able crop to grow. By means of proper pruning a winter crop, 
the only profitable one, can be secured, instead of the summer crop 
which would ripen when the market is well supplied with fruit. 
As these vines are not long lived, beginning to bear the second year, 
and being spent when five or six years old, it is found convenient to 
plant them midway between rows of figs or citrus trees, which when 
the passion vines are grubbed out, remain in sole ocupation of the 
field. 
Seedlings are easily raised by sowing in pots, tins or boxes, or 
plants may be obtained by striking cuttings. If the weather 
be cold at the time a hot bed and a glass or calico frame 
are helpful, as the plants are tender and do not stand frost. 
They are set out when six to nine inches high, at distances 12 
to 15 feet apart, in rows of the same width. It is necessary 
to train them on a trellis with posts about nine inches 
wide, and six inches long, set 18 inches in the ground, with 
stronger strainers properly strutted at the end of the rows. 
