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dicular to its direction. It is easily made by running first an or- 
dinary plough, which traces the furrow and is followed by a double 
mould-board or ridging-plough, which not only opens up the chan- 
nel, but throws the loose earth on both sides so as to form the bank. 
Should a deep channel be required, this operation is repeated over 
again. 
The Distributing Furrows are easily traced by running an 
ordinary single furrow plough up and down the same furrow. 
It is important that the water should not come into actual con- 
taet with the bark of the trunk, as trees which have thus been stand- 
ing in water for some time are apt to develop the “collar rot,” which 
is an exudation of sap at the root crown, and is very similar to the 
gum disease. Many a promising young tree has thus perished 
through being improperly watered. For this reason, water shouid 
not be applied to the trees in the bowl-shaped reservoirs which 
beginners often think is the best way of watering them; whenever 
water is thus applied a little mound of earth should be left as a 
protection round the trunk. Another reason why water should not 
be thus applied is that in order to be more beneficial, it should be 
placed within easy reach of the tender rootlets which radiate round 
the plant, and to which it is most beneficial. I have already called 
attention to the structure and disposition of the roots of the plant 
round the stem, so that the reason is plain why it is more beneficial 
to water the plant at some distance from the trunk, where all these 
tender rootlets radiate, rather than close up to the plant itself. 
Showing at ‘‘A’’ the proper place to mulch, manure, and water. 
The distance of the furrow on each side varies according to 
the size of the trees. 
For young vines a furrow on each side. 18 to 24 inches away 
from the lines might be drawn, whereas for older vines planted 
