140 AMERICAN GAME. 
the gills, at about two inches apart from head to tail, 
cool him for ten minutes in a very cold spring, or on ice, 
boil him in screeching hot salt and water, and eat him 
with no condiment but salt and the squeeze of a lemon. 
If he be under a pound, there is nothing for it but to 
fry him, but remember to use neither butter nor lard, 
which are abominations to the gnostic, but the best oil 
of Aix, and see that the oil is seething and the pan crack- 
ling hot before you put them in. Garnish with fried 
parsley on a very hot dish; and in whichever way you 
cook them, eat them—whenever you can get them, that 
is to say, between March and September—in the north- 
west you may substitute for the last November; on the 
third of which month, last season, I discoursed sundry 
in prime condition, at mine host Brown’s, on the Sault 
St. Marie; and the taste is scarce out of my mouth yet. 
T have tasted nothing like them since, or expect to do so 
until next September, when, the wind and weather-gods 
permitting, I hope to wet a line there; in the Fly-fisher’s 
true Paradise. And may you have, whoever you be, 
gentle reader, and wheresoever you throw the long line 
and neat fly, such sport as I anticipate. 
