820 AMERICAN GAME. 
as seen and felt upon the board, not yet in his grander 
and nobler capacity and character, as game in the free 
air, or on the liberal waters, let us observe that the cook 
who sends this glorious fowl red-raw up to the table, to 
be cut up butcherly and bedeviled in a chafing-dish, 
with wine and jelly, and I know not what, is worthy of 
arepe and the nearest lamp-post—death without benefit 
of clergy. The man who would so condescend to eat 
him, his juicy, melting, natural richness disguised by 
cloying artificial sweetness, deserves incontinently to be 
elected a New York alderman, and doomed to batten, 
life-long, at the corporation ¢ea-table; nor can we con- 
ceive a doom more hideous or intolerable to be endured 
by any rational, much more refined or thinking man, 
than such a condemnation; whether we regard the 
quality of.the gross feeders and fowl-livers with whom 
he would have to consort, or the nature of the ill-cooked 
ill-assorted, rank and racy viands which he would be 
compelled to absorb. 
No! let the kitchen be the kitchen, and its work be 
done within its own confines. Let the duck, roasted to 
a turn, redolent of a rapid fire, and brownly, nay, but 
almost blackly crisp without, be served up on its lordly 
dish, without one gout of sauce or gravy to dim the 
splendor of the sheeny porcelain. A vase of celery 
may accompany him, and, if you will, a salver of halved 
lemons, but no more. Let him be placed before the 
right man of the company, one competent to 
