^43 (JfiEENfiOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



When the grapes are about the size of peas, the center of 

 the bunches can be cut out with scissors, and when those 

 on the outside have set in clusters of three, one or two 

 of the berries can also be removed. 



In forming the spurs upon the sides of the main 

 shoots, it sometimes is necessary to remove some of the 

 shoots that start. As a rule, the laterals should not be 

 nearer than twelve or fifteen inches, and sometimes a 

 distance even greater than this is desirable. The length 

 to which the laterals may be allowed to grow before they 

 are pinched in, is determined by the distance at which 

 the vines are planted. If placed three feet apart, the 

 laterals will interlace at eighteen or twenty inches and 

 should be pinched back at the point of meeting. All 

 superfluous bunches, and all tendrils at the same nodes 

 with the remaining bunches, should be removed at 

 the same time. 



While it is desirable to pinch in some shoots and 

 thin out others, to prevent the vines from becoming too 

 thick upon the trellises, on the other hand, great harm 

 can be done by thinning too much, as the leaves are the 

 assimilating organs of the plant, and, up to the capacity 

 of the plant and the trellis, the greater the amount of 

 leaf surface, the greater will be the growth. 



WATERING AND SYBINGING. 



Grapes thrive best in a warm, moist atmosphere, 

 which not only tends to keep the red spider in check, 

 but promotes the growth of the plants. A proper degree 

 of moisture should always be maintained in the border 

 by watering whenever it shows signs of being dry, and 

 in the air by wetting walks and syringing the plants. 

 Syringing is particularly desirable at the time the vines 

 are breaking, and on bright days should be performed 

 two or three times, until the shoots have started and the 

 flowers are opening, but it should then be discontinued. 



