1826, OCTOBER. THE UMPQUA RIVER 223 



qualified for tke task ; leaves lanceolate, entire, smootk ; wood, fruit, 

 bark, and leaves very aromatic, precisely like Myrtus Pimenta, and when 

 rubbed in the hands produces sneezing, like pepper ; 40 to 70 feet high, 

 18 inches to 3 feet in diameter ; bark smooth and whitish ; young shoots 

 bright green ; appears to be a favourite food of squirrels, as I found sundry 

 shells opened. This very splendid evergreen tree will prove, I hope, a most 

 valuable addition to the garden and perhaps may be found useful in 

 medicine or as a perfume. Before I could obtain the seed I had to cut 

 down a large tree, being unable to climb it, the bark being so smooth, which 

 was done at the expense of my hands well bhstered. Saw some very 

 large trees of Castanea, but none with perfect fruit ; also, in addition to 

 what I saw before, abundance of Ribes sanguineum and Ruhus spectabilis, 

 both very luxuriant in the deep shady places near springs and streams. 

 Found one shed horn of Black-tailed Deer : the temptation was too great 

 so I tied it on the bear-skin bundle. Appears to be a larger animal than 

 the Long-tailed Deer. Every two or three hundred yards called for a rest, 

 and two or three times in the course of the day for a pipe of tobacco, and in 

 this way did I drag over the most laborious and tedious marches I have 

 experienced for many days. On reaching the summit of the last hill the 

 desired sight of the Umpqua River presented itself to our view, flowing 

 through a variable and highly decorated country — mountains, woods, and 

 plains. Half an hour's walk carried us to the banks, where we encamped 

 on the east side in the angle where the httle river we marched along to-day 

 falls into it. Arrived at five o'clock, having marched seventeen miles. 

 Having scarcely any fresh food, Mr. McLeod and Mackay went oub in 

 hopes of killing deer, whUe I employed myself chopping wood, kindling the 

 fire, and forming the encampment ; and after, in the twihght, bathed in 

 the river : course north-west ; bed sandstone ; ninety yards broad ; not 

 deep, but fuU of holes and deep chinks worn out by the water. Two 

 hundred yards below is a small rapid in several channels and small grassy 

 islands ; wiU never admit of any barge larger than a ship's jolly-boat, by 

 the numerous rocks that rise above water and the rapids. The distance 

 from the ocean cannot exceed thirty or thirty-five miles, as I observe 

 Menziesia jenuginea and Pinus canadensis,^ which keep along the skirts 

 of the ocean. Only a few of the horses now came (eight o'clock) and 

 although the moon is shining, they will not come tUl to-morrow. Mine is 

 among the number, so that I have nothing to he down on although very 

 tired. Mr. McLeod returned unsuccessful, having wounded a large deer 

 which perhaps will be found in the morning. Evening fine. 



Tuesday, 17JA— Last night I sat up by the fire until ten o'clock, when we 

 learned that some of the people camped in the valley over the first moun- 

 tain and some only half-way there, the horses being worn out. Mr. McLeod 

 very kindly gave me his own blanket and bufialo-robe, and reserved for 

 himself two great-coats, as the horse with my articles was one of the furthest 

 behind. Morning dull and heavy, noon fine and clear, wind easterly. 

 Having nothing for breakfast, Mr. McLeod and Mackay and myself went 

 out on the chase. The deer wounded last night by Mr. McLeod was found. 

 * Tsuga canadensis, Veitch, Man. Conif., ed. 2, p. 464. 



