188 VEGETABLE FORCING 
Planting —Freezing the roots for a few days before 
they are planted is thought to be an advantage. Pre- 
paratory to planting, regardless of the location, about 2 
inches of earth should be placed in the bottom of the beds. 
The roots, which should not be less than four years of 
age, are then placed on this layer of soil as close to- 
gether as possible and the spaces around and between 
them filled with soil. An inch or two of earth is placed 
over the tops of the crowns, and 6 to 8 inches of soil is 
used in this way if blanched shoots are to be grown. In 
order to have a succession of shoots it is necessary to 
make new plantings at intervals of three to four weeks. 
There is a better market for forced asparagus during 
the late fall and winter than in the spring, when there 
is more competition from California and the South. There 
are probably no better seasons to have it ready for market 
than at Thanksgiving and Christmas. Less heat is re- 
quired, too, early in the winter than during January and 
February. 
Temperature.—There is some difference of opinion 
concerning the most suitable temperatures for the forcing 
of asparagus. Growers and writers all agree that the 
crop should be started at a low temperature. It will be- 
gin to force at 45 degrees or even below that point. If 
the temperature does not exceed 50 degrees for a week 
the results will be better. High temperatures at first ap- 
parently produce weak, spindling shoots. After strong 
shoots have started, a temperature of 55 to 60 degrees 
will be satisfactory, though some practical growers prefer 
75 degrees or even higher temperatures. 
Watering.—Immediately after the beds are planted 
they should be given a thorough watering. Enough 
water should be applied to penetrate the entire depth of 
the beds. They should then be kept constantly moist, 
and this may require two or three waterings a week. 
Rather profuse watering is regarded as necessary for high 
yields of large shoots. 
