RHUBARB 199 
wide. Single roots, dug in the fall, weighed, with the 
little soil that naturally adhered, from two to five pounds 
and produced most excellent results in the forcing bed. 
See page 202 for notes on yields from these roots. 
Seedlings may also be started under glass and planted 
in the open the latter part of April. If there is danger of 
frost, the young plants should be well hardened before 
they are set in the open ground. They stand transplant- 
ing well, and if started under glass the total period of 
growth the first year is very much lengthened, which is 
a great advantage in growing large roots. A soil of high 
fertility, and the most thorough tillage, are absolutely 
necessary for the growing of large roots in one season. 
Digging and storing roots—The roots are dug or 
plowed out and stored in the same manner as asparagus 
roots. See page 182. 
Preparing beds.—Beds which are properly prepared for 
the forcing of asparagus are equally suitable for rhubarb. 
See pages 183, 186. 
Freezing roots——The growth of rhubarb under arti- 
ficial conditions is accelerated by thoroughly freezing the 
roots and giving them a rest period before they are 
planted. Sometimes they are frozen in the field where 
they are plowed out, or they may be exposed to hard 
freezing at any time during the winter. They should be 
frozen solid throughout. There is no danger of injuring 
them by the lowest winter temperatures. It is undesir- 
able, however, to leave the roots uncovered in the open 
ground more than several days, because their vitality will 
then be reduced by excessive loss of moisture. One to 
three days of freezing will have the desired effect. In 
mild climates where there is no hard freezing, drying 
the roots for a short time has much the same effect as 
freezing them, though drying should be avoided if 
possible because it reduces their vitality. An excellent 
plan is to dry the roots for a day and then pile them in an 
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